Bobbing along

No big ride today, just a 7 km pedal into Alleppey.

The morning mist lingered over the Backwaters first thing, but that didn't dampen the birds song.

The school run for these two is a bit more entertaining than the usual one, it certainly beats taking the school bus for sure! Indian children mostly wear the most immaculate school uniforms, with no seemingly individualism ( bit tricky to roll  up the hem of a long tunic ...). Can you imagine sending your son to school dressed all in white??!

In Alleppey I was on a mission to buy some spices, but first of all I was sidetracked by the wonderful array of fresh vegetables, 

and a row of bright orange and yellow plastic jugs which caught my eye,

Then it was these two chaps sporting beautifully folded crisp white dhotis.

But then I spot the spices sellers.  Spices, the essential ingredient of Indian culinary life.  Armed with a small pair of pliers they crack and crush the whole spices to demonstrate the freshness and aroma.  So what did I buy?

Warm cinnamon and star anise, cloves and nutmeg too.  A handful of cumin seeds, a pinch of mace and a root or two of dried tumeric and ginger.  Can you already smell them?

Round the corner was the banana chip sellers.  Not a fish in sight!  As quick as lightening he sliced the bananas into the hot oil with a super sharp mandolin, it's a wonder he still has any fingers left!  'You try?, madam, you try?' Is the constant refrain as they ply you with samples till you give in and buy a bag or two!

The spiced ginger variety were my favourite.

These pretty waffles were tempting too.

Further along the street near a temple are the flower sellers.  Fingers busily stringing the jasmine buds to make garlands to be used as temple offerings.

Marigolds, roses, large and small.

Before long it was time to return and get ready for our next adventure...

As I was leaving the cabin our neighbours wished us well, and we ended up having a little chat.  They were from Delhi and their daughter was studying in London - at Goldsmiths. 'Oh' I said my son lives just behind there, to which they replied, so does our daughter.....turns out that they live on the same road a few houses apart.  Just goes to show that isn't really is a very small world!

So where are we heading off to now?

On here - a traditional Keralan houseboat, and the bikes come along too!  

Constructed from wood in the traditional manner

with thatched palm walls and roof 

this is our home for the next night.

The cabin is small and, well, cabin like, but I like the special touch with the toilet paper.  After pedalling all these miles it's nice to see they are thinking of our comfort...

As we board the boat we are each presented with a fragrant jasmine garland

and a refreshing fresh coconut to drink.  The flesh of which made a reappearance later on in the evening in various tastey dishes for dinner.

But before then we make our way through the Backwaters and watch life float by.

These three are busy with their nets seeing what they can catch,

whilst these two have a delivery to make

and these chaps have a boat to repair.

We float past paddy fields of rice, they can have three or four rice harvests a year in this part of India where, interestingly, the paddy fields are actually one metre below sea level.

These ducks were having a lovely time dipping and diving, little do they know they live on a duck farm and not a duck spa!

After a fish lunch on board 

it's time to relax

and Debs decides the pilot needs a rest too!

These children have finished school for the day and are heading off home on the other side of the river!

 

After all the frantic peddling in the heat it's delightful just to chill out, catch a light breeze and drift off whilst looking at the reflections.

Soon the sun starts to dip, the waters still and it's time to tie up for the night.

Dinner is a buffet of local dishes freshly prepared by the chef.  Ever had pineapple curry? It's delicious, here's the recipe:

First make the usual curry paste of finely chopped onions, garlic and ginger.  In the pan first of all dry roast some white mustard seeds and cumin to release the aroma then add some oil and fry off the curry paste for 10 minutes until it starts to caramelise.  You'll need to stir it though so it doesn't stick to the bottom of the pan.  Add some coconut milk, a whole crushed pineapple and one or two mashed bananas, depending on the size.  Simmer for 20 - 30 minutes, check seasoning and serve.  Delicious.

Have you noticed that men where a dhoti in this part of India? Well I was curious to know more, so with a little gentle persuasion Joseph showed us the technique, including how to make a handy phone and keys pocket.  Here's Mike learning how to put one on

and here's Debs determined the ladies are not left out either!

Next to where we were moored was a seamstress, so she came on board and demonstrated how to wear a sari.  It can take a 'professional' sar wearer just a few minutes to wind the 6 m of fabric and tuck it all neatly into place.  I doubt, even with the help of YouTube, I'd be able to recreate the look!

Underneath is worn a sari blouse and as I don't have one Maryjoan offered to make me one.  So off I trooped - down the gang plank sari clad - to be measured for one.  It will be ready to collect tomorrow morning before we leave at 6.30 am!

Day 10 - 60 km ride along the coast

With most of the shops shut on strike the ride was a bit more relaxed, no doing battle with trucks and lorries.  But the buses, tuctucks and mother bikes still gave us a run for our money!

We cycled along the coastal road between the sea and the backwaters, didn't know which way to look at there was so many interesting things to see.  But no monkeys this far down in Kerala.

So I just had to keep stopping to take photographs....

We passed a boat builders, making the traditional Keralan fishing boats.  All wood, they looked as though they had been stitched together:

Beautiful inspiration for mark making?

It will need oiling and then sealing with tar to make it waterproof and ready for sailing.

Stopping for drink breaks frequently beneath the shade of a convenient tree there is a chance to see what is going on 

One of the main 'industries' of Kerala is coir processing.  The coconut husks are separated and the fibres collected together for spinning into the ropes and other items.

On we cycled passed fishing nets,

boats (various) and

palm tree fringed beaches, dotted with water birds.

Fishermen were busy,

and wherever we stopped Rintu attracted a crowd of friendly children!

Our tea stops are very often taken at roadside kiosks,

but today we have many more miles to pedal...60 km / 37 miles in all on a very, very hot day.

So it was with relief we turned right, made our way down the canel and into our next home stay. And of purse a chilled glass of fresh watermelon juice helped too.

The hotel is on the waterfront, so our bikes were parked in front and off we went to find our chalets.  Debs and mine is the one on the rights. Unlike the others ours wasn't thatched, but our walls were still made of palm leaves; thank goodness it had air con though as it was really hot and humid.

Here's the view from our veranda, we can sit here and watch the world float by.

Want to have a look around? 

It's really quite a treat with all its dark brown polished wood and copper (brass?) fittings and things. The lights are the lovely glass hand blown ones that we have seen all over India.  I have this feeling that they may have originally come from Belgium, but then I might have totally made that up.  

All looks quite colonial.

Here's a closer look at the brassware gleaming in the late afternoon sun.

And this is the pot of orchids hanging on the veranda.

Hurrying back to the main house for my Ayurvedic massage (a very interesting experience) I saw this chap busily fishing.  See the plastic bag hanging up?  Well it was positively jumping with fish...

Doesn't our dinner table look lovely? Lorraine had been busy with the help ( and shopping skills) of Joseph and Rintu.