Just to the Left of the Moon: The Pink City

The first Indian city to be constructed on a grid layout and the centre of the blockprinting production. For the next two days we shall be accompanied by Himmat Singh (himmatsinghr@yahoo.com), guide extraordinaire and a veritable fountain of knowledge on all things Indian. If you are planning a visit to Jaipur then we can't recommend him highly enough.

Driving through the streets of Jaipur isn't a speedy affair so there is plenty of time to wind the window down and snap everyday life such as the decorated gateways

and the stalls from which you can buy all the flowers

lots of them, for the job.

Cycleshaws ready to take you anywhere, and given the density of traffic, they are as fast as any motorised vehicle. The shutters are pulled down at this time of day, but when they go up later a covered walkway will be revealed, idea for shading from either the sun or rain, depending on the season.

However, not everyone needs their services as they move around the city.

The shop shutters may be down, but if you life your eyes then there are delights to feast them on. Called The Pink City after the colour of its architecture, it is actually a warm light terracotta.

Stepping into the street to take a better photograph isn't without its perils, although this bike was so heavily ladend it needed two to push it along as well as the cyclist!

Someone is tired of walking and has hitched a ride with his Dad?

There are more women visible on the streets in Jaipur so I am getting some serious sari watching now. Brightly coloured, often clashing there hasn't yet been a colour scheme I haven't liked.

Health and safety would have a field day I think, although the wooden building props are quite photogenic.

And whilst this looks like a very pretty scene with the pink walls and bright clothing, look closely and realise that water is having to be collected from a hand pump on a busy street.

Whilst there are no dairy cows the milk comes from the water buffalo and goats, transported and sold in various sized churns.

Brightly coloured pots line the street, how they don't all end up smashed or run over is anyone's guess.

We weren't stopping within the walls of the Pink City but headed through and up into the hills to where the Amber Fort is situated. No traffic is allowed up to the city so another mode of transport is required. Look closely at the photograph, can you see what it is?

In the mornings, if you don't mind a bit of a queue, you board an elephant and make your way up to the Fort in a very stately manner. We had wondered just how you actually boarded an elephant, but really we shouldn't have worried, you climb up a tower and hop onboard, two at a time. Camels may be the ships of the desert, but the elephant must be the ocean liner.

These elephants are looked after by the government and only work for a few hours each day, going off at midday for lunch and a rest. Many have colourful chalk decorated face patterns and are looked after by the same handler for their working life. As with most animal/ human relationships as close bond and attachment is formed. That is certainly the case between the mahout Khalid and Monica.

Riding up high, swaying in time with the elephant's gait you have a marvellous view of the surrounding countryside as you make your way slowly but surely up the winding road. Some elephants ar faster than others, so there is a little competitive overtaking going on.

As we ride the road is swarming with hawkers trying to sell you loads of tat...which really looks appealing. Thankfully we are up high and can avoid them...mostly!

These two seem to have their toenails painted too!

There's not a cloud in sight, it's a beautiful clear blue and the city walls are clearly sillouetted on the skyline. You can see the crenellations closer up on top of one of the gate.

Looking up the beautiful fretwork is on show,

They allowed the ladies of the court to see without being seen as well as letting the cooling breezes waft through. But what you can't see at the bottom of the walk are the photographer touts. It's not only Alton Towers where you can have your photograph taken on a ride.

Eventually we reach the top. It's quite a strange sensation when you step off the elephant, as though you ar still at sea.

Off they go, just a few more rid s before Monica can make her way home for lunch.

Which leave the way open, in the cuteness stakes to these guys...

... although he seems to be taking it all in his stride and pops his feet up.

Doors and locks, I think I'd better start a new blog post dedicated to them.

Can you see the elephant using his trunk to supports the ceiling? Then search for the peacock, it will be somewhere in the building, I wonder where?

Ah, there's a peacock and two elephants here, can you see them?

Lots of beautiful doors and their surrounds. I have a feeling they should have their own blogpost, just to keep them all in one place, I think there will be rather a lot before this part of the adventure is over!

But may be then the arches will want their own spot today?

Bamboo platforms have never looked so good, or photogenic,

but some people will need convincing!

Looking out from one of the many balconies we can see the Saffron Gardens which are set out as a traditional knot garden.

It also gives us the chance to watch others making their way up on the elephants too.

Terry and her camera.

Another colour study, so many inspirational moments if is (almost) overwhelming.

The carved fretwork is both decorative and functional.

Restoring the facade,

but glimpses of splendour still peek through.

The ceilings are so magnificent it's a shame they are so far away. If you look closely you can just the ever present mouse at the foot of Ganesh.

Another splendid door...

On the lower walls were these carved marble panels of flowers and butterflies.

The gem at the heart of the Fort was the this mirror faced building. Quite magnificent and delicate - if coloured glass had been used the whole effect would have been very different and quite gaudy.

Even the ceilings were patterned with the glass mosaics.

Not one inch was left undecorated.

As ever, the doors were functional but beautiful.

Restoration work continues on the roof tops and domes,

from which they have a grand view of this hidden garden, a lush green oasis amongst the amber stone.

Once again there isn't a cloud in the sky and although warm in the sun the dry heat makes it very pleasant. However this is winter, so when not outside in the sun it can be much cooler and the nights are quite chilly.

Some seek shade in unusual places,

Come the summer the hillsides surrounding the Fort will burst for the green and bright. But for now they are a sober brown.

Recall the vase motif earlier on the glass walls? Here it is again, no glass this time but paint.

Look closely at this pair of archways. You may think they are the same, but in fact one is Hindu and the other Muslim - it's all to do with the sharpness of the edges!